At the end of the summer of 2022, the threshold of eight billion human beings on earth was crossed. The staggering increase in inhabitants, coupled with increasing consumption and travel, decreasing mortality and dominant urbanization, implies a vision of the space in which we act dominated and governed by the unlimited numbers of mass society. However, for the past 30 years or so, a contrary trend has been emerging, especially in the most crowded places on the planet. Beginning with examples from minor, vernacular and local history, this paper attempts to reason through a few projects about the personal need for solitude, the gaze, and the thought of the sacred and symbolic through modestly sized but no less necessary projects.
Self-Construction
The so-called ‘Adriatic room’, the sea called on maps until two centuries ago ‘the Gulf of Venice’, is one of the few places in the Mediterranean where common cultural, social, spatial traits are found along its shorelines.
The repetition, with small variations, of similar building modes, functions, and settlements make it a unicum that has no equal both on land and water.
One of its architectural (and poetic) constants is the presence of fishing huts called ‘Trabocchi’: a design theme of which we find built examples dotting the coast from the Venetian lagoon to Apulia, and which combine the apparent conceptual oxymoron between isolated object and deep rootedness to a genius loci not already only local but of the Adriatic basin as a whole. [ 1 ]

Trabucco in Termoli
Not only that. The essentiality and fierce interdependence of the parts with the whole; the diagrammatic system of assembling and joining the elements; the resistance and flexibility to static and dynamic stresses; the clarity of the technological elements and the randomness of the overlapping of the parts coming from a poor and imaginative but never paltry or ragged reuse; the variety of technicality and formality — typological? — dictated by different modes of fishing and experimentation combined with knowledge acquired and consolidated by centuries of practice, make it a peculiar, but by no means minor, architectural and landscape theme. [ 2 ]

Laura Federici - Trabucco - private collection, Rome
If the elements are reduced to their primary functional essence, the volumes disappear, the homogeneity and poverty of the materials is disarming, other categories take, with a new and completely autonomous force, the place of the traditional ones: the lines of the cables, the sequences of the pillars and poles that support the nets, the material grains of the woods and iron, the shadows that are never extended and sharp but always formed by series of similar but not equal objects, the reflection on the water. [ 3 ]

Adriatic Trabucco in Peschici
The localization of the hut at the boundary of the landscape, at the transition point between land and water also marks its fate as an architectural limit, of solitude, of non plus ultra. [ 4 ]

Adriatic Trabucco
Urban Origami
On the contrary, there is no doubt that tourist pressure is increasingly changing the face of the ‘Venice System’. The nearly thirty million presences a year are going to impact, almost without any kind of filter or corrective, a system in precarious balance of only — as the countdown of the display of the now famous Rialto pharmacy inexorably recites — 49,999 residents in the historic center.
Quickly changing the picture are added phenomena unknown or numerically insignificant until very few years ago, such as Bed & Breakfasts, which have in fact decisively transformed the structure of hospitality in the lagoon city, or the ‘discoveries’ by mass tourist itineraries, of new areas in the fabric of certain sestieri (Ghetto, Misericordia, the Greeks, Santa Marta, etc.) to be transformed and ‘put to income’.
However, new phenomena, new ways of spatial and social use of the city and the extraordinary natural environment that contains it, are slowly spreading in the edge areas, in the border ‘fringes’ between land and water that so profoundly influenced the whole history of the Venetian territory.
Venice, the city of the perfect superposition of systems, described by Le Corbusier by resorting to the anatomical metaphor of blood circulation, manifests its most complex reality.
It used to accumulate wealth through the constant mobilization of goods from one place to another. Now, with the replacement of the temporary stopover of goods by the permanent presence of mass tourism, the city-museum-theater of itself witnesses its disintegration through the continuous reinvention of its past.
The city has lost its identity (and partly its appearance) and has turned into a place where decay becomes a normalized condition and what was once its persuasive tragicness loses its charm.
The figure of the tourist and his presence become a crucial factor in its existence, monofunctionally a totalizing condition. The tourist-collector collects fragments of images and memories with the sole purpose of being able to prove that he ‘was there’. But memory is not a Cartesian space, and perception, often parceled out and distorted by flows and numbers, has become a ‘disposable vacuum’.
The stone city par excellence towers above, as Fernand Braudel reminds us, a sunken forest. Stone is above wood, but wood emerges from the water steadily in numerous places and is still the formal and perceptual mediation between stone and water. In the Lagoon, the Larch of the bricole draws the net that separates the tenuous boundary between practicable paths and shoals, while in the city it becomes the three-dimensionality of landing points. Also made of larch is the ‘temporary’ bridge of the Accademia, built by Eugenio Miozzi in 1933 and never again removed or rethought in modern forms (the 1985 Biennale was a training ground for ingenuity to feed the infinite "analogous Venices" that still inhabit our mind, but operationally it does not count…).
The ‘urban folds’ in Larch wood imagined for Campo Santo Stefano are the tools for a reinterpretation of places that are now overwhelmed: capsules for solitude, where one can regain the pre-eminence of being over moving. The placement of the urban origami, light objects declaredly unrelated to the design of current street furniture, allows a different perception of space, today characterized by crossing and private rest areas (bars, restaurants, hotels…). Around each origami, an environment is created that is integrated with the current field, which can function as an area of rest and friction to the flow, allowing the citizen and tourist its own privileged corner, which manages to slowly focus on the elements that make up the entity of the urban space, in a vision that goes against the current perception of the field dependent currently only on the economic possibilities and time available. The few, simple elements employed confront the multiplicity of urban activities: stopping, movement, meeting, information, exchange, commerce, public transportation.
The two ‘water gates’ that signal the arrival on the southern side of the Campo of the two canals act as real thresholds that combine, like motionless kaleidoscopes, the water and land systems. Folding in on themselves, they draw seats and shaded areas, a very rare and precious commodity in Venice. [ 5 ] [ 6 ]

Aldo Aymonino - VivereVenezia 2002 - Origami one 1

Aldo Aymonino - VivereVenezia 2002 - Origami two
On the side of the Santo Stefano’s church rests, taking up a centuries-old Italian and European tradition (just think of the cathedral in Ferrara and Piacenza, but also of the Stephansdom in Vienna), the artifact that-containing the newsstand, public toilets and a small garbage tools deposit, compose the new background of the campo for those arriving from the Accademia Bridge. Like a Leonardesque machine, the kiosk changes shape and arrangement with the passing of the hours and seasons: tortoise lock in the humid Venetian winter, it lets light leak from its interior only at night [ 7 ]; while in fine weather it opens its ‘flap’ display shelves toward the campo, integrating with the public space and becoming one of its main protagonists. [ 8 ]

Aldo Aymonino - VivereVenezia 2002 - Newsstand view closed

Aldo Aymonino - VivereVenezia 2002 - Newsstand view open
The Lagoon of Incessant Change.
Then there is water, the founding element of Venetian identity and the continually shifting threshold from which everything started and which, even in contemporary times, marks the point of transition between the two worlds, the urban and the lagoon, which are so intertwined and intersected that even to this day it is difficult to define their boundaries with certainty.
The territory of the Lagoon, a true lebensraum of the Serenissima, has always housed within it very strong contrasts of functions and modes of use, seemingly irreconcilable with each other. From the splendor of its marble city to the unstable, self-built fishing huts of Pellestrina, at first glance so puny and brittle; from the agricultural crops of Sant'Erasmo to the mussel and shellfish farms; from the glass makers' furnaces that have been churning out fragile masterpieces for centuries to the heavy metal and chemical industries allocated in Marghera; from the delicate flat-bottomed wooden boats to the steel giants built at the root of the Ponte della Libertà, the lagoon space has always managed to hold everything together, often even against common sense.
The journey, or rather, the exploration we have attempted through our projects is a critical and synthetic reinterpretation of this world in which formally anything can happen, held together by the common denominator of water and infinite and changing light, which has as its only orography the artificial figures of human production and the distant background of mountains and which makes the Latin motto contraria sunt complementa effective and visible.
The different names of the lagoon desert (velme, ghebi, motte, barene, sacche, valli, casoni, etc.), have the same toponymic variety as the dense stone city (calle, campo, campiello, corte, piscina, fondamenta, riva, ruga, sotoportego, sestiere, rio, canale, rio terà, etc.) and together they form identity constellations capable of precisely locating specific places in the inextricable and constantly surprising labyrinth of the Venetian territory.

Aldo Aymonino - Desdemona e Iago - sketch – 2021
The term motta or mota (small hill, hump) is generally used to refer to an artificial mound of land in the middle of the lagoon, changeable and with uncertain contours, exposed to the sudden variations of the weather.
The two small motte di Cà Zane are located in the North Lagoon, about four and a half kilometers northeast of the island of Torcello. These two small strips of land, a few dozen meters apart, may represent the threshold of a new way of understanding the relationship between natural and artificial.
On the one hand, the built, which by its disciplinary statute is subject to the iron law of tectonics, on the other hand, the Selva as a phenomenon of environmental autophagy, as a mechanism of violent re-appropriation of territories, as an aggression against the artificial to cannibalize it in an anti-romantic way. [ 9 ]

Aldo Aymonino, Giuseppe Caldarola, Fabrizio D'Amico - Desdemona e Iago - Plans and elevations – 2022
The two islands are inhabited by two completely different artifacts: the first, Desdemona, is an artificial soil super-elevated on 13 shaped beams of three different lengths supported by inclined pillars with cubic plinth of the same shape as the basement elements that consolidate the ground of the motte, a small territory that is continually invaded by the waters that erase the traces of its pre-existence, and that accommodates the spontaneous vegetation that, growing over time, will make Desdemona a romantic ruin: on its artificial ground, built in such a way that it can also be practicable in its intrados between water and construction, the ashes of Ezra Pound and Igor Stravinsky, two great foresti (foreigners), one American and the other Russian, both buried in Venice, could be scattered. [ 10 ]
Instead, Iago is a complex machine in perpetual motion: 15 small excavator buckets are mounted on thin metal rods, about 15 meters high, anchored to the cubic concrete plinths of the basement, the same as those supporting Desdemona's traditional structure. The buckets accumulate storm water, wind-blown dust and debris, biological remains of birds nesting in them, and go into ‘peak load’ when the weight of the debris that accumulates there reaches 2 kilograms, spilling its contents into the lagoon, which, as it accumulates over time will build a new motta that growing on the old one will slowly block the rods and bucket mechanism, erase the traces of the pre-existence, turning the machine into a rusty and anti-romantic ‘sylvestre ruin’, a reminder of the necessary alternation between artificial and natural.
Iago and Desdemona transform themselves by looking at each other: they are perfect bachelor machines, the Pillars of Hercules of the meaning, potentiality and spatiality of the relationship between architecture and landscape; distant points in the rarefaction of the suburban horizon of the Lagoon. [ 11 ]

Aldo Aymonino, Giuseppe Caldarola, Fabrizio D'Amico - Desdemona e Iago - View – 2022
Thus the two ruins, similar yet very different in their raison d'être, stand out in the apparent emptiness of the Lagoon, in the ceaseless mutability of its light and reflections, against the motionless background of its distant horizon. [ 12 ]

Aldo Aymonino, Giuseppe Caldarola, Fabrizio D'Amico - Desdemona e Iago - Views – 2022